Ancohuma is a high mountain in the Cordillera Real of the Bolivian Andes. Until a team of three American teenagers and one adult guide collected summit data in 2002, its elevation had never been determined. There was conjecture up to that point that its height was possibly over 23,000 feet, which would have made it the tallest peak in the Western Hemisphere, but that turned out not to be the case. It ended up being 21,079 feet- tall, but not the tallest.
Into the night, Intently gaze, And while you do, A mystery plays.
There were 9 teenagers in Will’s group. He was sure of it. He knew each of them by both their name and quantity of snacks they possessed. They’d been backpacking in the boonies for 10 days and he’d headcounted them a bunch of times. Making sure everyone was accounted for, was one of his prime responsibilities as the group leader. The nine kids and two leaders made for a total group size of 11, a fact engrained in his mind.
Out on the trail,
Leaning against a rock,
Cooking supper, and
Watching the water boil.
I’m hungry,
But have to wait.
And so,
I feast on tales.
We begin with a story
About noodling for Catfish.
Which seamlessly leads to
A discussion of Black Holes.
And then, there’s a description
Of how to set a cedar fence post
In rocky ground.
The lasagna will take 20 more minutes,
But no worries…….
Because there’s plenty more food for thought,
Waiting to be had.
Further proof
that dessert,
Is often
Best eaten first.
The Top of Huayna Potosi; Cordillera Real, Bolivia
Take the broad shoulder
Above the Upper Lake
To the North Ridge.
Then, follow it up to an obvious headwall.
Bypass that to the east
And gain the summit pyramid.
Thirty degrees,
Mixed terrain.
One step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Dirt, rock, then snow.
Be careful
With your feet.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Crampons,
Balling up.
Tap with
Your ice axe.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Look to the west,
And see the mountains
Create the horizon.
Step.
Rest,
And breathe.
The rope,
Keep it
On the downside.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Chunks of snow,
Sliding
Down the slope.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
The tie-in,
Check
The knot.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Ice axe,
In the
Uphill hand.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Don’t fall,
But be ready
To self-arrest.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Blue sky overhead,
Cloud build-up
In the west.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Hot and thirsty,
Snow and ice
Everywhere.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Wind,
Slapping
The face.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Keep following
The trail
In the snow.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
The top,
Over there and
Not so far.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Steeper,
But only
For a short distance.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Water,
Got to stop
To take a drink.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
That has to be it.
The summit ridge,
Straight on up to the top.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Plumes of snow,
Being blown
Over the top.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Everything,
Seems to be
Below.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Which one
Is the actual
Summit?
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
Pain,
Lungs burning, and cold feet.
Joy.
Step,
Rest,
And breathe.
No more up.
No time to rest.
Don’t waste your breath.
Soggy sky,
Fog and mud,
Mountain pass,
Another rut.
Land Cruiser,
Bikes on roof,
Brazilian driver,
And a dirt road that wanders.
Six with driver,
All cramped inside.
Hours of driving
Relentless ride.
A lot of dozing,
Engine droning,
And a Pink Floyd song
Floats through the speakers.
A dream, he wonders?
Over the crest
And then we stop.
Unload the bikes,
Attach the wheels,
To Sorata we ride.
No need to pedal,
It’s mostly down,
But check your brakes,
Control your speed.
Intriguingly,
We’re riding a fine line,
Between old world and new.
Muted colors of the Altiplano,
Wool Ponchos, and Fedora’s.
Brilliantly contrasted
With lightweight bicycles,
Colorful jerseys and helmets.
Soon, the town appears
In the valley below.
No surprise- the map said it would happen.
So, on down we go.
Get to town,
Find the hotel,
Unload the stuff,
Take a shower.
But there’s no water.
So,
Take a nap,
Wander the hallways.
Consider the snake skins,
Along with some maps.
And then it happens,
The water comes back.
Wash off the road,
Break-out the wine.
Finally, it’s time to tell the tales.
While there was nothing gruesome,
Or crashes that day,
There is still so much that remains to say.
Ultimately, it’s off to sleep.
Quiet time to wonder, ponder, and dream.
About the things to yet unfold.
Some will seem profound, others trivial,
Many unexpected, and all amazing.
And each with a story
That begs to be told.
For what it’s worth
A word of advice…
Embrace the unknown,
Hang on for the ride,
Travel the road,
Make adventure your guide.
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