We called it the Valley of the Dinosaurs mostly because of the monstrous rock formations that were scattered all around. Besides just overwhelming the high mountain valley with their size, they breathed a strange sort of life into the area that had convinced me from early on that the whole place was on the move. I could never pick out any one thing that caused me to think that—it was more like a general, overwhelming and deep in the gut feeling that had me convinced. I was consumed by the place’s pure and simple beauty and a feeling that the whole area was way more alive than me from the very first time I blundered into it. Through the years, I took every opportunity to return and while the physical cost of getting there was never cheap- without fail, it was always worth it.
After almost five hours of clawing our way up out of Lost Creek, things finally started opening up a little. A couple of small clearings, or maybe they were more like openings, allowed us to actually walk like normal humans for a few feet and also offered glimpses of the red granite humps sticking up just above the trees not far ahead. It felt good to be moving in a more upright position and not tangled up in some sort of vine. Just as I was thinking that it was starting to get more backpacker friendly, we rounded a clump of aspens and were stopped by a wall of small spruces, filled-in with Gooseberry’s and deadfall. I looked for a simple way through it, shifted, turned, stutter-stepped and then just came to a stop. Give me a break, I thought, almost out loud.
There seemed to be just one option, so I took it and we walked right into the middle of a true thicket. At least, I reasoned, we’re going in the right direction. Besides, we’d been fighting the same kind of stuff all morning and I saw nothing new. Just ahead to the right a bit, there was a space between two trees that looked promising. It was blocked down low by a small bush. A conglomeration of dead and dry aspen poles and logs were wedged and suspended above that. It looked like the best possibility, so we headed for it. About that time, I stepped into a mostly hidden bog and my left foot sunk into the mud almost up over my ankle.
“You’ve got to be kidding”, I yelled.
My right leg was in an awkward position when I pulled back to yank the wet foot out. I instinctively raised my whole body up and to my right and simultaneously, the weight of the pack pulled me off balance and even further to the right than I should’ve gone. I lunged and pulled my soaked foot out and up. Just as it was coming free of the mud, it caught on some sort of vine and since the unbalanced weight of my pack was already pulling me to the right, I fell uncontrollably down to the ground.
Luckily, my right knee hit first, breaking my fall, and I slowly kind of just rolled out onto the ground. There was plenty of noise for those first few seconds, but no words. No one, including me, knew exactly what to do. I looked for blood, felt for cuts and waited for the pain. There was none of it, but there was silence.
Then, I rolled all the way onto my back and simply said, “that was good”.
At that point, it became okay to talk, and that’s what almost everyone did. Somehow, I’d missed the rocks, trees, logs, stumps and even the pongee-like stick a beaver had left when I fell. How in the world did that happen, I wondered? What were the odds? No one, except for a small aspen, helped me get up.
I checked the straps on my pack, noted that it still wasn’t lunch time, turned my focus back toward the thicket and then, began moving forward again. I felt some time pressure to get through the gnarled mess, but knew better than to rush things any more than we already were. After walking a bit, a promising looking route between two little spruces appeared. I guarded my eyes from wayward sticks and branches and avoided grabbing any trees that might have sap on their trunks as I pushed toward it. No reason to confuse the issue additionally, I reasoned.
We finally made it to the trees and went between them as envisioned, but were abruptly stopped dead in our tracks at the far end by a grove of tangled, bunched and seemingly impenetrable small aspen trees. There appeared to be no real choice, so we once again just sucked it up, put our heads down and pushed our way in. We busted through to the other side after only a few feet and I was relieved to see mostly widely spaced Lodgepoles and no underbrush blocking the apparent route. Our speed picked up as the vegetation became more amenable to backpacking. But, we were still going uphill and above 11,000 feet in elevation and the increased pace was making it harder for people to breathe. Easier breathing would be an upside to slow moving, I reasoned.
After only about 100 yards of less difficult walking, we were met by a literal wall of willows. They were in massive jumbled clusters and clumps and I looked and probed for a reasonable way around, which I soon found. After only 50 feet or so of detour, the end-run worked as hoped and we were soon back on track. After another few minutes of easier and more confident walking we finally came to the anticipated creek. It was only a foot or two across at its widest and from the change in vegetation types that lined its banks and the obvious rocky ridges rising up closely on either side, I knew that we’d finally reached the place where the little valley actually began.
While the valley floor was relatively flat at that point and there were plenty of dry spots to step on, I knew that it was ultimately going to get marshy and that the various willows, Potentillas, Gooseberrys and other bushes along with the mud would make it increasingly difficult to walk along the creek. In anticipation of that, I moved over toward the edge and up onto the hillside a bit, seeking a potential route through the pines, firs, and spruces which would avoid all of that. As we climbed up out of the creek bottom and onto the higher ground, we were greeted by a game trail headed right in the direction I figured we wanted to go.
Without hesitation, I stepped up onto it as though I expected it to be there all along. It angled up slightly toward the wider part of the valley and the higher peaks off in the distance while avoiding the creek. Good, I thought. I was excited and relieved by the prospect that the little trail might just take us to the magical clearing where I hoped to set up our camp.
Walking on the small path was easy. After our hours of dealing with the constant confusion and chaos of the morning, the fact that we were still going uphill was overlooked as everyone began to sense that the end was in sight and developed some sort of second-wind. It was obvious that Elk were among the various wildlife that’d been using the trail, since their tracks were everywhere. The canopy was widely enough spaced for our backpacks to easily fit through, made that way by bull elk repeatedly using their antlers to clear the way as they moved forward. It was both pleasant and exciting walking. And then, we came around a corner and were simply there.
The trail entered the clearing at a different point from where I’d come into it before and I’d never even noticed that it was there. I strangely felt as if I was arriving home when we finally rounded a humongous bird-shaped rock and walked into the meadow.
The place was mostly level and was more of an opening nestled into a grove of scattered and stunted Limber Pines and Subalpine Firs, all gasping for air at the high altitude as they climbed up the north side of the massive summit ridge of Bison Peak. Off to one side, clear and cold water cascaded down from somewhere up above and created a small creek, which provided easy and direct access to all of the fresh water we could ever use.
There was little underbrush or even grasses mixed in with the widely scattered trees that surrounded the clearing, which helped create all sorts of openings for tents within the protection of the forest. The soil was more like gravel and composed of the same granite as the dinosaurs. It drained well and I knew would not get muddy in the event of an afternoon storm. The trees and a few smaller boulders provided all sorts of hanging and leaning options for both our gear and our bodies.
The meadow separated the tent sites from one of the monstrous dinosaur rocks which dominated the view to our east. The rock had the appearance of a turtle and as I walked around looking for the perfect spot for my own tent, I was sure I saw it flinch.
And then, there was the summit of the peak to our west. From an opening near the creek, we could see it towering over us almost as if it were guarding us from something. The same ridge that provided our backdrop and water, continued from where we were on up to the top. The almost magical high altitude line where the trees stopped and the alpine tundra began was easily discernible and the rocks and boulders of the actual summit were visible less than 1000 feet above.
Within 15 minutes our tents were all set up and our home for two days had taken shape. Finally, after hours of climbing, trudging, falling down, dragging, tripping, banging, forcing and otherwise bushwhacking our way up from Lost Creek, we could sit and lean back against a boulder or tree to take it all in. As I sat there, I let my mind and eyes wander and kept trying to come up with a single word to best describe what we were all in the midst of– but couldn’t. There was more to it than that, I supposed. At least, I concluded, we’d gotten to a place worth getting to.